Small Grower Champagne - Fleury
It was the first pour of the night. We’d just arrived at Le Pont for one of their tasting evenings. A casual tour through French classics: Chablis, Burgundy, Provence rosé. But before any of that, they started us with a grower champagne we’d never heard of: Champagne Fleury Blanc de Noirs Brut.
One sip, and we were wide awake.
We drink a lot of champagne. It’s how we start most weekends with friends—a ritual at this point. In Australia, Veuve and Bollinger are everywhere. Easy to find, easy to enjoy. Of the two, I reach for Bollinger. I love that rich, brioche-heavy mouthfeel and full-bodied style. Crisp and ultra-lean champagnes? Not for me.
So this Fleury caught us off guard—in the best way. Made entirely from Pinot Noir, it’s a “Blanc de Noirs” (literally “white from blacks”), meaning it's a white sparkling wine made from black grapes. In Champagne, that typically means Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier, two of the region’s three primary grapes alongside Chardonnay. Most champagnes are blends of all three, which gives balance. Blanc de Noirs, by contrast, leans into structure, richness, and fruit depth.
And yes, it’s biodynamic.
Fleury has been a biodynamic pioneer in Champagne since the 1980s. And while I’m generally skeptical of the harder edges of “natural” wine—especially the no-sulphur, borderline oxidative stuff—I have no issue with biodynamics done well. This is a perfect example. No funk, no flaws—just a beautifully made wine with energy and depth.
So what does this one taste like?
Fleury’s Blanc de Noirs is robust yet elegant. On the nose, there’s baked apple, honeycomb, and toasted almonds. On the palate: ripe orchard fruit, hints of citrus curd, and a buttery brioche note that lingers. The texture is creamy and round, thanks to 3–5 years of lees aging. That time on lees (dead yeast cells left in contact with the wine post-fermentation) adds flavor, body, and that luxurious mouthfeel that elevates the entire experience.
It’s non-vintage, but don’t let that fool you—this drinks with the depth of a far pricier bottle. Around $120 in Australia, and easily holding its own against the likes of Bollinger’s Blanc de Noirs, which sells closer to $240.
A Bottle Worth Celebrating
A few days after the tasting, I had a pretty big win at work—something important approved at board level after a long push. There are a lot of ways to mark a milestone, but I knew exactly what I was reaching for. That bottle of Fleury was waiting in the fridge. It didn’t disappoint.
Where to find it:
Tasted at: Le Pont Wine Store, Sydney
The takeaway?
Try grower champagne. There’s incredible value in wines made by the people who farm the grapes and craft the wine themselves—no marketing fluff, just skill and intent. Know your style. If you love rich, toasty, Bollinger-like champagne, Fleury’s Blanc de Noirs will feel like a hidden gem. One sip, and you’ll wonder why you’ve been drinking anything else.